It’s all a little too much for my weary mind to handle. After an hour of failed attempts at an afternoon nap, I’m sitting at the little desk in my room, trying to find some sort of inspiration that will keep me from staring out my window at the spectacular view of the Ios port unfolding just below my balcony.

Finding the will to sit down and write is nearly impossible amid such incredible panoramas of sea and sky (especially when I know my friend Amy is happily sunning herself on the gorgeous beach down the street), but I really want to get it all down before the magic of the past couple weeks blurs and fades into a jumbled collection of memories and photographs.

My time in Greece started hard. Asia to Europe wasn’t an easy transition for me and I almost wanted to turn around and get myself back to the exotic bliss of Thailand while I still had time on my travel clock. However, the thought of meeting up with friends kept me going and I managed to find enough strength to cope with my immense culture shock and persisting medical ailments (long story and an eye-opening lesson in the Greek medical system). By the way, nothing tests your endurance more than dealing with ongoing health issues while traveling alone in a country that doesn’t speak your language. Good thing for me it wasn’t that serious or I might have lost my cool and gone home early.

First of all, anyone planning a Greek Islands holiday should plan to spend as little time in Athens as possible. I recommend you check out the Acropolis, maybe hit the museum and then get out of town quick. The people are generally rude, arrogant and insensitive, and the city itself seems as unfriendly as its grumpy inhabitants. The place can easily ruin even the most optimistic mood, and cause you to question what made you want to come to Greece in the first place.

Life got a little better in my days on Andros, the most northerly island of the Cyclades and easiest escape from the city. Tourism is king on the islands so of course, travelers get a whole lot more respect. But while the people were friendly and the beaches beautiful, strong winds blew me off the beach for most of the time I was there and dried out my hair and skin, chapping my sun-kissed skin and leaving me with pimples and a peel.

I had almost given up completely on Greece as a favorable destination, when my friend Amy arrived and out of desperation to find something worthwhile, we jumped the first ferry to Crete. My state of mind was a little down, my wellbeing shaky and my charisma fading when I first stepped off the ferry at the main commercial harbor near Chania. But everything took a turn for the best when our cab dropped us off in the historic city center, and we had our first glimpse of the enchanting architecture, sidewalk cafes and adorable cobblestone alleyways. I was instantly in love with everything. This was the Greece I was dreaming of.

I think Crete just might be the greatest surprise of all my travels. After a week of ongoing discomfort and down time, just 15 minutes on Crete managed to set things right. Our original plan to stay two nights while we waited for our friend Romina (who unfortunately didn’t make it) morphed into a seven-night stay I will cherish forever.

From the buzzing social scene on the alleyway below our balcony and traditional Greek nightlife to our unforgettable drive along the western coast, every experience became a fond memory. Even the three-hour wait that finally enabled me to see at doctor after four other unsuccessful attempts at the local hospital was almost enjoyable. I could even see myself living in this ancient paradise, enjoying the charmed lifestyles which seem to center on eating, sipping cappuccino, sunning on the golden beaches, swimming in the azure sea and indulging continuously in a lively café culture that lags late into the evening.

Anyone considering a trip to the Greek Islands should definitely include a stop in Crete, particularly the west for a stay in Chania (also spelled Hania and Xania – the Greek tend to have a few English translations for all their towns). Rich local history and enchanted atmosphere lend to an authentic Greek experience that will leave you dreaming of when you might return again.

For us, the island tour continues as we attempt to see as much as possible. While we are still musing on the indelible charms of Crete, we are trying to accept each island for what it is – a beautiful lesson in the varied customs and lifestyles of the Aegean Sea.

October 4, 2006