Arriving in New Zealand was a bit shocking. After three and a half months soaking in warm sunshine and tropical climates of the Caribbean, Central America and French Polynesia, my first few nights in Auckland were more uncomfortable than inspiring.

First of all, it was raining and cold. Secondly, since I hadn’t spent much time in a city these past couple months, I had to reacclimatize to the traffic, people and concrete. And lastly, since I was rolling solo now, I had to adjust to the backpacker lifestyle of fending for myself and staying at hostels where my roommates averaged the age of 19. By the way, I was totally unaware that New Zealand (and Australia from what I hear) is “the” spot for young European travelers just out of high school.

Despite my various adjustments, all was good once I headed north for the Bay of Islands and got my first glimpse of New Zealand whenua (Maori for “the land”). There are fern trees here as big as giant palm trees and they grow dense in emerald forest groves that blanket the mountains like an incredible textured tapestry. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Once through the mountain passes, the giant fern, or Ponga forests give way to beautiful green pastures that stretch out in every direction. Framed by the forest in the distance, flocks of fat fluffy sheep munch on terraced hillsides of lush green grass while lazy cows stand around oblivious to their blessed peaceful existence on these fertile lands. And once in a while, the coast sweeps inland, forming spectacular natural bays that have been the source of Maori prosperity for more than a thousand years.

Further north, the Bay of Islands is a sailor’s paradise. With 144 islands rising from the dark blue-green waters, the bay indulges with countless hidden coves, rugged coastline and postcard beaches. The common advice to the average traveler is to get on a boat, any boat, and explore the bay.

In part because I received a 50% off voucher from a cool American girl who didn’t have time to use it, I choose the fastest sailing ship in Pahia – On The Edge. I was lucky to have a perfectly sunny day, however there was barely a breeze in the air and without any wind, that streamlined catamaran was more like a drifting pontoon boat. I had a good time though, and rather enjoyed the fact that I wasn’t freezing in the wind anyway.

My favorite sailing story came quite unexpectedly the next day when I was invited to join a group out on a local’s 115-year-old sailboat. Since it was a smaller boat, everyone aboard was basically considered crew and we all took part in manning the ship. The sun was strong and again the wind was weak, but the informality of being on a private ship made the experience far more eclectic.

The weather is generally warmer, drier and sunnier in the Northland of New Zealand, so I decided to stay a full week in Pahia, a small harbor town in the heart of the Bay of Islands. I met loads of great people, celebrated ANZAC (Australia New Zealand Army Corps) Day at the Pahia Veteran’s Club with the locals, tried my luck at playing the bagpipes, drove along the entire stretch of 90-Mile Beach (on the sand at low tide), and made it all the way to the furthest northerly point on the North Island: Cape Reinga – the most spiritual part of the country for Maori tribes.

After two weeks, I’m heading south. Currently half way between Auckland and Wellington on the North Island with a tour company called the Kiwi Experience, I have an overly ambitious itinerary to visit almost every main attraction in the country. But hey, why not. I’ve got nothing but time on my hands, and I’m still amazed by the thought that had I not made the commitment to follow my dreams, I would have been at work today.

May 6, 2006